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Feature 2 - March/April 2007
 
 

Where Are the Women? “Here We Are!” 

Twelve female foodservice leaders share insights
with CIA students.
 

By Jeff Levine

 

Hundreds of CIA students heard from a dozen leading women in the foodservice industry who gathered at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, N.Y. on Wednesday, January 17, to examine the question of “Where are the Women?” The daylong program included a panel discussion, roundtable chat, presentation regarding media opportunities, and a reception with students, faculty and administrators. 

“This is a question that has been on people’s minds for a long time,” said CIA alumna Cat Cora (1995), the only female Iron Chef on the popular Food Network program. “Where are the women, and why aren’t there more?” 

“I wanted to sincerely explore the question myself,” said Odessa Piper, a former chef and restaurateur who is now an educator and advocate for sustainable agriculture. “Women have transformed the industry, and my generation is the first in which women became leaders in restaurants.” 

Chef and restaurateur Melissa Kelly (1988), says she was pleased to be part of the group of strong women leaders asked to participate. “It’s important to be able to give our perspectives to students about what we experienced and how things have changed. And aside from the gender issue, networking and camaraderie is where you learn the most.” 

In addition to Cora, Piper and Kelly, the day’s participants included Debi Benedetti, certified executive coach; Kersti Bowser (2000), food stylist and culinary producer; Gabrielle Hamilton, chef of Prune, New York; Helene Kennan, executive chef of The Getty Center, Los Angeles, and president of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs (WCR); Nora Pouillon, chef/owner of Restaurant Nora and Asia Nora, Washington, D.C.; Anne Quatrano, chef/owner of Bacchanalia and Floataway Café, Atlanta; Karen Trilevsky, founder of FullBloom Bakery, Menlo Park, Calif.; Lisa Ekus-Saffer, president of Lisa Ekus Public Relations, Hatfield, Mass.; and Patricia Yeo, chef of Sapa, New York. 

The program was sponsored by the campus chapter of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs, and supported by a grant from the Vocational Training Education Act (VTEA). 


CIA alumnae Melissa Kelly, Kersti Bowser and Cat Cora
are joined by Steve Swofford, CIA’s executive director of alumni relations. 


Food Network’s Cat Cora addresses a student's
question during roundtable discussion. 


Kersti Bowser speaks about issues affecting women in the industry
while Cat Cora, Lisa Ekus-Saffer, Gabrielle Hamilton and the
rest of the panel listen. Photo credit: CIA/Keith Ferris

 

 

Food Network chef is on the scene with a spicy menu and a can-do zeal

By HSIAO-CHING CHOU
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER FOOD WRITER

If there's any question which house Food Network's "Food 911" has taken over, it's always the one with vans parked outside.

Closest to the entrance is the white cargo van filled with stacks of bins containing kitchen equipment, everything from a peeler to serving platters to Le Creuset pots and pans. This one travels across the country from city to city during the season as the show is taped. It's possible for chef Tyler Florence to cook in any kitchen, no matter how Spartan, because of this van.

  photo
  Zoom Dan DeLong / P-I
  Tyler Florence takes a taste between taping sessions last Thursday of "Food 911." Florence was in Sammamish to rescue Wendi Oglesby, right; her twin, Cindi, lent moral support.

There are also several rented minivans that shuttle the dozen or so production crew members, along with set props, and camera, lighting and audio equipment.

Last week, the cast and crew of "Food 911" hit Seattle to rescue three viewers who had sent in letters asking for help with some of their favorite recipes. For those who are unfamiliar, the premise of the show is that Florence responds to a cooking "crisis" by showing up at the viewer's home to provide what is essentially a one-on-one cooking lesson.

In the case of Wendi Oglesby, who returned a couple of weeks ago from nine months in Barbados for a job assignment, she wanted to be able to re-create some of the complex flavors she had tasted in the Caribbean. Last Thursday, Florence and his crew set up shop in a borrowed kitchen -- because Oglesby's kitchen wasn't big enough to accommodate everyone.

By 10 in the morning, the set was established. Florence was behind the stove, preparing the first batch of marinade for the Bajan Chicken that he would be demonstrating later. Camera and light cables had been routed from the kitchen to the dining room, where the monitors and sound mixer were situated. A folding table had been placed in the front room of the house and surrounded by bins of ingredients so the food and prop stylists could do their magic.

The scene behind the scene was bustling and efficient. But it was fun. And aromatic: Scotch bonnet peppers were featured in the recipes that Florence prepared, so the air was savory and spicy.

What you should know about "the T" -- as Florence is affectionately called by his crew -- is that, even off-camera, he keeps it real. It is one of the first things you will notice about him. He has enough of an ego to be successful as a television chef but not too much ego to put a bad taste in your mouth. After five seasons starring on "Food 911," he still insists on doing his own prep work for each taping. Certainly, he has help. But, if you hear him say on-camera that he watched the fishmonger fillet the fish he's cooking, chances are it's for effect.

In fact, Florence filleted a whole halibut for the escabèche recipe that would start off the taping on Thursday. But, while the cameras were rolling, he attributed the fillets to a fishmonger.

"We work hard," said Florence, "but we're two degrees away from vacation."

Florence often hums when he's prepping, and he's always sticking a spoon in someone's face to offer a taste of what he's cooking. It's common to see him zip across the room between takes to give the sound technician or producer or whoever is standing around a bite.

"He's really hands-on," explained food stylist Kersti Bowser, who considers Florence "her brother" and can anticipate his needs. "He wants to make sure the food tastes awesome and that the reaction people have (after they taste the food) turns out to be natural."

As a result, there is no "swapping" on the show, which is to say that an assistant doesn't prepare the final product ahead of time for Florence to present at the end. He prefers to cook a dish from beginning to end. The taping will stop while the fish finishes searing, the chicken finishes frying, or for something to chill or marinate properly.

Florence takes seriously his responsibility to give home cooks recipes that work and are accessible. Before this season, he got together with culinary producer David Domedion to discuss and research which recipes would make the show. Then it was up to Domedion to translate Florence's desires into recipes that would make sense to home cooks, as well as to test them.

The show is popular and is in its fifth season. Florence's South Carolinian roots give him a charm that works like a spell, in spite of more than 10 years living in New York City. He may be the star of the show, but he's not beyond offering to pour a visitor a cup of coffee.

He enjoys connecting with people, so he wears regular street clothes on the show instead of a chef's coat. Wearing chef's attire, in his opinion, immediately conveys a sense that there's a divide between the professional and the amateur. Indeed, he has expertise to share, but cooking ought to be fun.

"I speak in their language," said Florence, who just handed in the manuscript for his second cookbook and is in the midst of opening a restaurant in Manhattan.

When it was time for Oglesby to step in, Florence put her at ease right away by complimenting the color of her shirt and briefly explaining the sequence of steps so she wouldn't be surprised by anything. He encouraged her to participate fully in the cooking and conversation.

"It's your show," Florence said to Oglesby. "You know how some people just stand there -- and they look like they're standing there? (He shakes his head.) Tell me what you're really tasting. Smile. Be involved."

Oglesby's twin sister, Cindi, yelled out some words of encouragement, too. Then the taping began. He asked about Wendi Oglesby's time in Barbados and what she enjoyed there. He segued from her comments to a mini-lesson on Caribbean cooking and a description of the first dish they would make for the dinner party that's the finale of each episode.

There are four acts in each episode. The first three segments each feature a recipe. The fourth act focuses on the presentation of all the food. For the Oglesby bash, this included the Bajan Chicken, marinated halibut, okra cou-cou (cornmeal), and a steel drum band. Friends and family were invited to attend the dinner.

A typical shoot starts at about 8 in the morning and ends after 6 in the evening, which makes for a long day. Florence has been so busy with "Food 911" and other obligations that he said he hasn't unpacked his suitcase in four years. The show has become his personal life. He accepts that for now because he has far-reaching ambitions.

It's not such a bad gig.

"We show up, we make great food and we tape it."


HALIBUT ESCABÈCHE
SERVES FOUR TO SIX

  • 2 pounds skinless halibut fillet
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, sliced
  • 1 red bell pepper, cut into strips
  • 1 green bell pepper, cut into strips
  • 2 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, optional
  • 4 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 2 fresh or dried bay leaves
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole allspice
  • 1 cup malt vinegar
  • 1 cup water

Cut the fish into 2-inch-wide strips and pat them dry. Season the flour with salt and pepper, dredge the fish in it and pat off any excess flour. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Fry the fish until it is lightly browned on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and then place the fish in one layer into a shallow glass dish.

Drain the oil from the skillet, return it to medium heat, and add 3 tablespoons fresh olive oil. Add the onions and bell peppers and fry until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice and Scotch bonnet pepper if using, and cook for another 2 minutes. Pour in the vinegar and water and bring it to a boil. Spoon the vegetables and herbs over the fish and then add the vinegar sauce. Let it cool to room temperature and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Serve at room temperature.

From Tyler Florence, "Food 911"


BAJAN CHICKEN
SERVES FOUR TO SIX

  • 1 (4-pound) chicken, cut into 10 pieces
  • 1 teaspoon whole allspice
  • 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
  • 1/2 cinnamon stick
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 red bell pepper, chopped
  • 4 scallions, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper
  • 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice, about 5 limes
  • 1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Cilantro leaves, for garnish

Rinse and dry the chicken pieces and put them into a shallow glass dish.

In a spice grinder, grind the allspice, peppercorns and cinnamon stick into a powder; set aside. Put into a blender the onion, pepper, scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnet, thyme, lime juice, butter, 1/4 cup olive oil and the ground spices. Blend to a puree and season with salt and pepper. Pour this over the chicken, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator 1/2 hour before you cook it.

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Pan-roast the chicken by heating the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in an oven-proof skillet or baking pan over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken pieces on both sides, then put the pan into the oven and roast the chicken until it is cooked through, about 20 to 25 minutes. Serve garnished with cilantro leaves.

From Tyler Florence, "Food 911"


CORNMEAL WITH OKRA (COU-COU)
SERVES FOUR TO SIX

  • 2 whole ears corn
  • 2 cups okra, frozen or fresh
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 6 cups chicken stock or water
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cups yellow cornmeal
  • Freshly ground nutmeg, to taste
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 yellow onion, chopped
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme (leaves only)

Put the whole corn into a preheated 350-degree oven until it is soft, about 30 minutes. Remove and set aside until cool enough to handle. Strip the husk from the corn and remove the silk. Cut the kernels off the cobs and set aside.

If using frozen okra, put them into a strainer and run them under cool water for a few minutes to thaw. Remove the stems from the okra and cut them into thirds.

Butter a 13-by-9-inch pan with 1 tablespoon butter. Bring the stock or water to a boil in a large saucepan and add 1 teaspoon salt. Gradually sprinkle in the cornmeal, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. When it is all incorporated, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, reduce the heat to low, season with pepper and nutmeg, and cook for 10 minutes stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and remaining butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the onion until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the corn, okra and thyme leaves and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir the vegetable mixture into the cornmeal then pour it into the buttered pan. You can serve this immediately or let the cornmeal cool and harden. Slice the cooled cornmeal into squares and serve.

From Tyler Florence, "Food 911"

 

 

Entrepreneurship@Cornell 2007 Celebration

April 19-20, 2007

Cornell Campus

Symposia Agenda

7:30 – 8:20 am Registration and welcome breakfast

Comments from John Jaquette, Jr., Executive Director, Entrepreneurship@Cornell

8:30 – 9:45 am SESSION 1

Panel 1: The Johnson School: Investing in the Future - Creating a Sustainable

Future: Trends in Energy & Climate Change

Moderator: Mark Milstein, Director, Center for Sustainable Global Enterprise;

Lecturer of Strategy, Innovation and Sustainable Global Enterprise,

Johnson Graduate School of Management, Cornell University

Panelists: Amol Deshpande MBA ’05, Associate, Cargill Ventures

Paula DiPerna, Executive Vice President, Chicago Climate Change

Kevin McGovern ’70, CEO and Chairman, McGovern Capital

LLC

Eric Young ’78, General Partner, Canaan Partners

Panel 2: Applied Economics and Management - The Nexus of Business and

Science: Educating Cornellians for Business in the Life Sciences

Description: A discussion of the educational programs and activities available

through CALS that bring together Business and Science for

Undergraduates and graduates at Cornell.

Moderator: William Lesser, Chairman of Department of Applied Economics

and Management and Susan Eckert Lynch Professor of Science and

Business

Panelists: Charles Hamilton ’95, MBA ’04, President and COO, Novomer,

LLC

9:45 – 10:15 am Networking Break

10:15 – 11:30 am SESSION 2

Panel 1: The Johnson School: Investing in the Future - Adapting to Industry

Change: The Convergence of Private Equity & Hedge Funds

Moderator: Henry O’Connor ’88, Principal, Orix Venture Finance

Panelists: Michael Karangelen ’90, Principal, Towerbrook Capital Partners

Jim McNair MBA’83, Sr. Managing Director, Corinthian Capital

John Altorelli JD’93, Partner, Dewey Ballantine

Damian Gilbert, Allen and Company

Panel 2: The Johnson School: Investing in the Future - Advancing Innovation as

an Entrepreneur: Transforming the Sustainable Industries

Moderator: Stu Hart, PhD, Samuel C. Johnson Chair in Sustainable Global

Enterprise Professor of Management

Panelists: Pinaki Bhattacharyya MBA ’03, Director, New Energy Capital

Ejnar Knudsen ’91, Executive Vice President, Cilion

Daniel Goldman ’87, CFO, GreatPoint Energy

Jeff Wolfe ’83, CEO, groSolar

Panel 3: Sloan Program in Health Administration - Rethinking Primary Care

Delivery

Moderator: John Kuder, Associate Professor of Policy Analysis and

Management, College of Human Ecology, Cornell University

Panelists: Leonard Quadracci, M.D., President of QuadMed and QuadMed

Corporate Health Services, Sussex, WI

Barry Zuckerman, M.D., Professor of Pediatrics and Public

Health at Boston University School of Medicine, Chief of Pediatrics

at Boston Medical Center

Reactor: Nancy Schlichting MBA/Sloan ’79, President and CEO, Henry

Ford Health Systems

Panel 4: Applied Economics and Management - Undergraduate Ventures:

Enterprising Undergraduates at Cornell

Description: A showcase of various student-run businesses. Discussion will

focus on the various ways entrepreneurship attitudes are

manifesting themselves on campus today and the challenges of

being entrepreneurial while going to school.

Moderator: Deborah Streeter, Bruce F. Failing Senior Professor, Applied

Economics and Management, College of Agriculture and Life

Sciences, Cornell University

Panelists: Rachel Doyle ’05, Founder and CEO, GlamourGals

Seth Flowerman ’08, Founder and CEO of Career Explorations

Ashleigh Smith ’07, Founder, Make it Happen

Alex Zahn ’07, Co-founder, Slope Radio

Panel 5: The School of Hotel Administration’s Leland C. and Mary M.

Pillsbury Institute for Hospitality Entrepreneurship - Women

Entrepreneurs in Hospitality

Moderator: Cathy Enz, Associate Dean for Industry Research

and Affairs, Cornell School of Hotel Administration

Panelists: Marcy Blum CIA ’75, President/Owner, Marcy L. Blum

Associates, Inc.

Carmel D’Arienzo MPS ’88, Owner, Villa Concierge

Rachel Roginsky ’79, Founder and Principal, Pinnacle Advisor

Group

Lynda Schrier Wirth ’82, President, Schrier Wirth Executive

Search, Ltd.

Panel 6: Cornell Program in Real Estate - Entrepreneurship in Real Estate

Development: Strategies from the Ground Up

Lead Panelist: Boyd Stofer ’71, President and CEO of United Properties

Brokerage and Management Company

Panelists: Mark Foerster, Executive Vice President, Northern Capital Group

Josh Kroll ’03, Associate, Cherokee Investment Partners

11:30 – noon Networking Break

Noon – 1:15 pm SESSION 3

Panel 1: The Johnson School: Investing in the Future - Revolutionizing the Life

Sciences: Venture Capital Investment Strategies

Moderator: Dean Banks, Vice President, Highland Capital Partners

Panelists: David Berry, MD, PhD, Principal, Flagship Ventures

John Brooks, Founding Partner, Prism Venture Partners

Anupendra Sharma MBA ’98, Investment Partner, Siemens

Venture Capital, Medical Solutions Fund

Panel 2: Sloan Program in Health Administration - Innovations in Medical

Practice Organization and Facility Design

Moderator: William White, Director, Sloan Program of Health Administration;

Professor, Policy Analysis and Management, College of Human

Ecology, Cornell University

Panelists: Frank Becker, Ph.D., Director of the International Workplace

Studies Program; Chairman of the Department of Design and

Environmental Analysis, College of Human Ecology, Cornell

University; Professor, Facilities Planning and Management and

Human-Environment Relations

L. Gordon Moore, M.D., Family Medicine Physician, Ideal Health

of Brighton, Rochester, NY

Reactors: Valerie Lyon, Sloan ’91, Associate Director, Business & Financial

Services, Gannett Health Services

Richard N. Hoffman, Sloan ’89, Executive Director Product Line

Services, Arnot-Ogden Medical Center, Elmira NY Sloan

Panel 3: Applied Economics and Management - Energy Entrepreneurship:

Carbon Credits and Beyond

Moderator: Ed Heslop, ’81, MS ’90, CEO, Environmental Credit Corporation

Panelists: Amol Deshpande, MBA ’05, Investment Associate, Cargill

Ventures

Daniel Goldman ’87, CFO, GreatPoint Energy

Panel 4: The School of Hotel Administration’s Leland C. and Mary M.

Pillsbury Institute for Hospitality Entrepreneurship - Women

Entrepreneurs in Food Service Operations

Moderator: Peter Rainsford ’68, MS ’70, PhD ’74, VP of Academic Affairs,

The Culinary Institute of America

Panelists: Lori Daniel CIA ’79, Founder/Co-owner, Two Chefs on a Roll

Kersti Bowser CIA ’00, Gourmet Butterfly Media

March 2007    

Women in Foodservice: Twelve Female Foodservice Leaders Share Insights with CIA Students


Hundreds of CIA students heard from a dozen leading women in the foodservice industry who gathered at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, NY on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 to examine the question of "Where are the Women?" The daylong program included a panel discussion, roundtable chat, presentation regarding media opportunities, and a reception with students, faculty, and administrators.

"This is a question that has been on people's minds for a long time," said CIA alumna Cat Cora '95, the only female Iron Chef on the popular Food Network program. "Where are the women, and why aren't there more?"

"I wanted to sincerely explore the question myself," said Odessa Piper, a former chef and restaurateur who is now an educator and advocate for sustainable agriculture. "Women have transformed the industry, and my generation is the first in which women became leaders in restaurants."

Chef and restaurateur Melissa Kelly '88, says she was pleased to be part of the group of strong women leaders asked to participate. "It's important to be able to give our perspectives to students about what we experienced and how things have changed. And aside from the gender issue, networking and camaraderie is where you learn the most."

In addition to Chefs Cora, Piper, and Kelly, the day's participants included Debi Benedetti, certified executive coach; Kersti Bowser '00, chef de cuisine at Bon Appétit; Gabrielle Hamilton, chef of Prune restaurant in New York City; Helene Kennen, chef at the Getty Center in Los Angeles; Nora Pouillon, chef-owner of Restaurant Nora and Asia Nora in Washington, DC; Anne Quatrano, chef-owner of Bacchanalia and Floataway Café in Atlanta; Karen Trilevsky, founder of FullBloom Bakery in Menlo Park, CA; Lisa Ekus-Saffer, president of Lisa Ekus Public Relations; and Patricia Yeo, chef of Sapa in New York City.

The program was sponsored by the campus chapter of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, and supported by a grant from the Vocational Training Education Act (VTEA).

Founded in 1946, The Culinary Institute of America is an independent, not-for-profit college offering bachelor's and associate degrees in the culinary arts and baking and pastry arts. A network of more than 37,000 alumni in foodservice and hospitality has helped the CIA earn its reputation as the world's premier culinary college. Courses for foodservice professionals are offered at the college's main campus in Hyde Park, NY and at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, in St. Helena, CA. CIA at Greystone also offers baking and pastry, advanced culinary arts, and wine certifications. For more information, visit the CIA's Web site at www.ciachef.edu.

 

"Kersti Bowser is one of the top known Culinary Producer's  & Prop Stylist's in the Nation.  In one way or another, you have seen her expertise on television, in cookbooks or magazines.  Armed with a long history of working with the best Chefs in the world, The Gourmet Butterfly and her impeccable team...will also exclusively Cater Special Events, with results that are beyond compare!"